Sea Tour 17M: The Beginning
I got a great start on my kayak today. Hannah’s still needs a little work but I figured I could do it while the glue is drying on mine.
I wanted something to handle my current weight and maybe a little gear. After talking with a lot of people and looking at all the designs on Tom Yost’s site I settled on the Sea Tour 17R hull since it displaces at least 300 lbs. I modified the deck to take on the same shape as the Sea Rider to match the deck on Hannah’s kayak. I’m adding one more stringer 3/4″ down from the gunwale to reduce the span between the chine and gunwale and stiffen the frame up a little.
Home Depot had some AB ply so I picked up a full sheet of it for $25 and I picked through the 2×12’s at Eiberhart Lumber here in New Braunfels for a clear piece of yellow pine. I found one with a small scuff on one side and no knots. Total cost for all the wood was under $50 and I should have enough for two kayaks.
The 2×12 got ripped into 3/4 strips, 2 for the gunwales, 1 keel. Two more of those ripped in half for the chines, 5/8 x 3/4 each. To cut out the frames I first lofted them onto some light weight graph paper and glued them to the ply with some watered down glue. Once that dried I cut them out rough with the jig saw and finished them up freehand on the table saw.
I sat down with frames 4 and 5 for a test fit and will reloft #4 a bit taller tomorrow. It hits me right about the knee caps and I’ll need some more room for my calves to slide through easily.
Doug
28 Jun, 2006
Anton,
When I designed the stations for the Sea Ranger, I lofted as per Tom’s offsets. I then added cutouts for the keel and gunwale such that the outside of the strips would sit on the lofted outline. I then cut back on the lofted outline such that the strips will be a bit proud of the plywood station. Did you do something similar to this?
Thanks
Anton
28 Jun, 2006
Yes, for the frames I lightly drew the outline of the lofted points, measured and marked where the gunwale, keel, and chines would go, shading the shapes in so they’re obvious later.
I then measured in 3/8″ on the side and bottom and drew darker lines from the gunwale to the chine, then the chine to the keel. 3/8″ used up most of the bottom of frame under the chine so I just drew from the corner of the chine to the point 3/8″ up on the keel. I’ve posted a picture below, you can click it for more options on size. This leaves everything from the gunwale down proud by about 3/8″. On the longer spans of frames 3 and 4 I hit the space between the keel and chine with some 60 grit to take it down another 1/8″ or so in the center.
Before you cut be sure to erase all the faint lines. It’s easy to forget which is which later.
I don’t know if this is the best method and I’ve not yet paddled a boat made like this so all the standard disclaimers apply. I do know this method was a bit easier than cutting the curves like I did on the Sea Pup.
Doug
28 Jun, 2006
Cool. I’ve had a tough time deciding on how proud I should make the strips from the outlines. Right now I have the station outlines curved, like Tom’s HDPE stations. I guess that will be a lot of slower cutting with a jigsaw, instead of straight lines with a table saw. It looks like the compromise is ease of manufacturing (straight lines) vs. more meat around the strips cutouts (curved lines).
take care
Anton
29 Jun, 2006
There are a few risks involved with the table saw method too. A higher risk to your fingers and more catastrophic failures if you miss the line on the table saw too.
Your fingers will be within 6″ of the blade unless you’ve got a fancy pusher that can handle the odd angles.
There seems to be plenty of meat for the gunwales and keel. The bottom chine has the least but I think since the skin will be pressing it into the frame it won’t be a problem.