Comments on: Sea Tour 17M: The Beginning http://kayakbytes.com/2006/06/24/sea-tour-17m-the-beginning/ Just another LR2 Blogs weblog Fri, 10 Dec 2010 01:55:13 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4 hourly 1 By: Anton http://kayakbytes.com/2006/06/24/sea-tour-17m-the-beginning/comment-page-1/#comment-1342 Anton Thu, 29 Jun 2006 12:55:05 +0000 http://kayakbytes.com/2006/06/24/sea-tour-17m-the-beginning/#comment-1342 There are a few risks involved with the table saw method too. A higher risk to your fingers and more catastrophic failures if you miss the line on the table saw too. Your fingers will be within 6" of the blade unless you've got a fancy pusher that can handle the odd angles. There seems to be plenty of meat for the gunwales and keel. The bottom chine has the least but I think since the skin will be pressing it into the frame it won't be a problem. There are a few risks involved with the table saw method too. A higher risk to your fingers and more catastrophic failures if you miss the line on the table saw too.

Your fingers will be within 6″ of the blade unless you’ve got a fancy pusher that can handle the odd angles.

There seems to be plenty of meat for the gunwales and keel. The bottom chine has the least but I think since the skin will be pressing it into the frame it won’t be a problem.

]]> By: Doug http://kayakbytes.com/2006/06/24/sea-tour-17m-the-beginning/comment-page-1/#comment-1341 Doug Thu, 29 Jun 2006 01:26:06 +0000 http://kayakbytes.com/2006/06/24/sea-tour-17m-the-beginning/#comment-1341 Cool. I've had a tough time deciding on how proud I should make the strips from the outlines. Right now I have the station outlines curved, like Tom's HDPE stations. I guess that will be a lot of slower cutting with a jigsaw, instead of straight lines with a table saw. It looks like the compromise is ease of manufacturing (straight lines) vs. more meat around the strips cutouts (curved lines). take care Cool. I’ve had a tough time deciding on how proud I should make the strips from the outlines. Right now I have the station outlines curved, like Tom’s HDPE stations. I guess that will be a lot of slower cutting with a jigsaw, instead of straight lines with a table saw. It looks like the compromise is ease of manufacturing (straight lines) vs. more meat around the strips cutouts (curved lines).

take care

]]> By: Anton http://kayakbytes.com/2006/06/24/sea-tour-17m-the-beginning/comment-page-1/#comment-1340 Anton Wed, 28 Jun 2006 21:25:30 +0000 http://kayakbytes.com/2006/06/24/sea-tour-17m-the-beginning/#comment-1340 Yes, for the frames I lightly drew the outline of the lofted points, measured and marked where the gunwale, keel, and chines would go, shading the shapes in so they're obvious later. I then measured in 3/8" on the side and bottom and drew darker lines from the gunwale to the chine, then the chine to the keel. 3/8" used up most of the bottom of frame under the chine so I just drew from the corner of the chine to the point 3/8" up on the keel. I've posted a picture below, you can click it for more options on size.  This leaves everything from the gunwale down proud by about 3/8". On the longer spans of frames 3 and 4 I hit the space between the keel and chine with some 60 grit to take it down another 1/8" or so in the center. Before you cut be sure to erase all the faint lines. It's easy to forget which is which later. I don't know if this is the best method and I've not yet paddled a boat made like this so all the standard disclaimers apply. I do know this method was a bit easier than cutting the curves like I did on the Sea Pup. <a title="Photo Sharing" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/antonolsen/174193348/"><img width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_3812" src="http://static.flickr.com/72/174193348_6c5e86da39.jpg" /></a> Yes, for the frames I lightly drew the outline of the lofted points, measured and marked where the gunwale, keel, and chines would go, shading the shapes in so they’re obvious later.

I then measured in 3/8″ on the side and bottom and drew darker lines from the gunwale to the chine, then the chine to the keel. 3/8″ used up most of the bottom of frame under the chine so I just drew from the corner of the chine to the point 3/8″ up on the keel. I’ve posted a picture below, you can click it for more options on size.  This leaves everything from the gunwale down proud by about 3/8″. On the longer spans of frames 3 and 4 I hit the space between the keel and chine with some 60 grit to take it down another 1/8″ or so in the center.

Before you cut be sure to erase all the faint lines. It’s easy to forget which is which later.

I don’t know if this is the best method and I’ve not yet paddled a boat made like this so all the standard disclaimers apply. I do know this method was a bit easier than cutting the curves like I did on the Sea Pup.

IMG_3812

]]> By: Doug http://kayakbytes.com/2006/06/24/sea-tour-17m-the-beginning/comment-page-1/#comment-1339 Doug Wed, 28 Jun 2006 20:04:14 +0000 http://kayakbytes.com/2006/06/24/sea-tour-17m-the-beginning/#comment-1339 Anton, When I designed the stations for the Sea Ranger, I lofted as per Tom's offsets. I then added cutouts for the keel and gunwale such that the outside of the strips would sit on the lofted outline. I then cut back on the lofted outline such that the strips will be a bit proud of the plywood station. Did you do something similar to this? Thanks Anton,
When I designed the stations for the Sea Ranger, I lofted as per Tom’s offsets. I then added cutouts for the keel and gunwale such that the outside of the strips would sit on the lofted outline. I then cut back on the lofted outline such that the strips will be a bit proud of the plywood station. Did you do something similar to this?
Thanks

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